Feathers And Fleece
New Puppy Tips.
A guide to help new pet owners
Help, he's chewing everything!
Sheepadoodle puppy from Feathers And Fleece Farm
The image of the sweet little Feathers And Fleece Sheepadoodle puppy
with the shoe in his mouth is only cute when it's not your shoe!
Puppies and chewing go hand in hand; the household destruction looks the same,
but the reasons for chewing are varied.
Just about everyone knows that puppies go through a teething period.
When they reach about the 3 months mark, the shark little milk teeth
begin to loosen and fall out; new, larger adult teeth cut through the gum and replace the baby teeth.
At about 6-7 months old, the transition is complete and a set of shiny white choppers are ready for action!
Remember, teething is painful.
The puppy wants to chew and gnaw to relieve his discomfort.
Supply your pup with several different types of chew toys and see what he likes best.
Don't litter the floor with loads of toys.
This can cause confusion for the puppy, making him think that anything on the floor
is something for him to chew.
This is not the lesson you want to teach.
Two or three toys to choose from is sufficient.
Don't give him an old shoe or a worn out towel to tear up.
He doesn't know the difference between old and new.
You will be giving the puppy the message that it is okay to chew up household or personal objects.
Supervise the teething pup.
Make sure his mouth stays on the toy and hasn't migrated over to the chair leg or flooring.
When you cannot supervise, confine the puppy to a small play area that he cannot damage.
Gate off a portion of hallway or use a small kitchen or bathroom.
Spray baseboards any cabinetry with an anti-chew product such as Bitter Apple.
If your puppy continues to chew, the item will be horribly bitter tasting, which will in turn make him go
back to his toy you have left for him.
If you don't have the extra space or don't want to take any chances, get a puppy play pen or a kennel crate.
This self-contained space also assists with the housebreaking process and behavior problems associated with separation.
Puppies use their mouths the way babies use their hands.
They pick up an object and examine it thoroughly.
Depending on what the object is, it may or may not survive the inspection.
Again, supervision during this process is key.
You must be able to catch him in the act if you want him to learn what is and is NOT appropriate to chew.
Keep chew toys readily available.
When you see the puppy about to pick up the wrong item, sharply warn him to "Leave it" and offer him
the toy in a warm, inviting voice.
If he doesn't accept your offer and returns to the wrong item, repeat the process.
Don't give in. If necessary, put him on his leash and keep him with you for a while
so he can't sneak off back to the forbidden object.
If your puppy chews non-stop or you come home from work to a ransacked home,
make sure that you are meeting your dog's need for exercise.
Dogs that are bored and under-exercised "get it out of their system" by digging, barking, pacing,
Without a release, they are incapable of holding everything in.
No amount of training can replace exercise.
Activity levels are based upon your dog's age, breed, diet, and exercise.
Puppies by nature are more active than adult dogs.
Very young puppies (under 10 weeks) can sleep 16-18 hours a day.
Pups over 3 months sleep less and play more.
Terriers and sporting dogs have high activity levels, while working dogs are more moderate
in their need for exercise.
Under-exercised dogs need to blow off steam, which can make them harder to train.
Make certain that your pup is properly exercised before you leave for an extended period of time (5+ hours).
Don't force the puppy into a frenzied day of chewing and trashing because you didn't have time to take
him for a long brisk walk or a run in the park.
Sheepadoodle of Feathers And Fleece Farm
Lastly, if you've tried using information for books or knowledgeable pet owners and are still
unsuccessful in teaching your pet what it can chew, consult a behavioral specialist or trainer.
Teething must be supervised.
Never leave a dog tied to an object and leave the room.
The dog could become tangled, panic, and hurt himself.
Here at Feathers And Fleece, we NEVER tie our dogs up for any reason.
Tether the dog and help him settle down by giving him something that will keep him busy.
If the dog begin to tug or whine incessantly, check your watch.
It may be getting close to walk time.
If so, get the dog out quickly.
If not, correct the dog with a firm NO!
Redirect him to the chew toy or squeaky.
Don't release him for nagging.
Now you can keep an eye on the dog no matter where you are in the house.
It also prevents the dog from slipping out of the room unnoticed while you're watching tv or on the phone.
Remember, you can only correct the dog if you see the misbehavior.
If you missed the act, all you can do is vow to be more diligent in your supervision and clean up.
Unless you catch the dog, the correction is useless.
After-the-fact punishment does not teach.
Upon finding the accident, many dog owners will grab the dog, drag it back to where
it took place, point at the mess, then push the dog's nose in its place and yell.
The dog will cower, lower his eyes, lay back his ears, yelp, and/or belly up.
The owner thinks the dog understands what he's done and that all of the posturing
is an acknowledgment of the misdeed.
IT IS NOT.
The dog is reacting to the here-and-now.
The postures struck are in response to the loud, deep voice and the affront of being grabbed and shoved.
For all the dog knows, you're yelling and pointing because you wanted him to soil the living room carpet,
not the hall carpet.
Discipline after-the-fact lets the dog know something is wrong, not what is wrong.
Only catching the dog in the act will let him know what is wrong and how to make it right.
Supervision is everything.
When you are home, the dog should be in sight.
When you cannot supervise the dog, he should be crated or confined to a small dog proofed area.
Clean up all accidents with a commercial odor neutralizer.
This type of product, readily available in pet supply stores and catalogs, breaks down the organic matter
that causes the odor.
Cleaning up with ammonia or pine based cleaners will not neutralize the odor.
If there is any residual odor left after cleaning, chances are good that the dog will return to the spot again.
Be sure to follow the package directions for use precisely.
If used incorrectly, the product will not work.
Click here to learn more about the training programs at Feathers And Fleece
Sheepadoodle puppy from Feathers And Fleece Farm
When you take the dog out, keep in mind that this is a toilet trip.. Not a time to play.
If you have to wait for an elevator, walk down a long corridor or path, keep the dog's attention riveted on you.
Don't let him stop and sniff until you've hit the street.
Move the dog briskly to the spot you have selected.
Let him sniff around, but do not leave the area.
Encourage the dog verbally ("Go potty") as you move back and forth across the area.
Give him no more than 10 minutes to get the job done.
Don't walk on for blocks and blocks.
You're not on a tour.
You're dog's bathroom should be close to home.
Gently praise the pup as he relieves himself.
Now go for a walk or go back inside to play.
The reward for going quickly is getting to play or go on an adventure walk afterward.
If the dog does not go, return home.
Crate or tether the dog.
Do not let him roam out of your sight: Doing so will simply encourage accidents.
Try taking him out again in an hour or so.
When he goes, you're going to see it.
If it happens indoors, correct him.
If it happens outdoors, praise him.
Let him know that what he did was good.
Keep in mind that when he goes to bed for the night, his stomach should be empty.
Do not give him food or water four hours prior to bedtime.
How Crating Makes Good Use of a Dog's Instincts
Many people associate kennel crates with imprisonment and punishment.
They don't see it from the dog's point of view- that of a personal den or safe-haven.
Crates minimize the stress and activity that is associated with and induced by being left alone with large
pieces of territory to deal with.
A crated dog can't pace back and forth or dart from window to door to window.
He can't work himself up into a frenzy that also may include chewing.
These behaviors play a role in losing control of the bladder and bowel.
Dogs actively avoid soiling their quarters.
This is the motivating force behind using the crate as a housebreaking tool.
Crating is not cruel or inhumane.
If a crate is introduced and used properly, it offers a natural way to house break a dog in 4-6 weeks.
The size of the crate is very essential.
Sometimes there is a very thin line that separates how much room is enough and how much is too much.
However, some dogs need more room to sprawl.
Take notice of how your dog typically uses space when he is laying in his free time.
You may need to study him for a while.
If the dog soils the crate daily, chances are the crate is too big.
If the dog can curl up and sleep in one corner and soil in the other, it's too big.
Do not put any absorbent bedding into the crate until you demonstrate that the dog will hold himself
and keep the crate dry at all times.
If the dog continues to urinate/defecate in the crate, make sure that you are adhering to the correct schedule.
Also, make sure that the dog is getting the proper amount of exercise.
Do not be late in getting the dog out on time.
A dog that is forced to soil his crate is a very unhappy dog.
Click here to view happy clients at Feathers And Fleece
Sheepadoodle puppy from Feathers And Fleece Farm
Introduce the dog to the crate slowly.
Feed him in it, put his toys in it, hide goodies inside, and make it an adventure.
It should be fun to go inside.
Put an irresistible chew toy inside, close the door, and stay nearby.
Talk to him while he is in there.
Make jokes and laugh: Make sure the mood is positive.
Let him out with a big Hooray!
Increase the length of time he's in the crate in small increments.
Distance yourself too.
Sit across the room, then sit in the next room.
If he begins to whine, a sharply spoken Quiet! is in order.
If he quiets, wait a moment or two and then let him out.
As long as he's complaining, he stays.
Don't reward tantrums with freedom.
If you've introduced the crate properly and taken the time to make it fun, he's
complaining because he can't be with you when he wants to, not because he doesn't like the accommodations.
Lastly, some dogs do not accept being crated.
For whatever reason, they become extremely anxious if confined: Some make extraordinary efforts to escape.
Signs of stress include incessant barking, shaking, trembling, extreme salvation or lathering.
Extremes in escape behavior include sores on paws, nose, and forehead from rubbing against the crate,
bloody paws, split nails, bent cage bars or cage moved out of place.
In most instances, the cage has been soiled repeatedly.
Do not force the issue. Some dogs simply cannot be trained using crates!
Upon first inspection, you may conclude that unless you can give your dog your undivided attention,
he's going to spend a lot of time in his crate or confinement area.
This is not so.
Tethering can replace crating as long as the tether (leash) is short enough to restrict the dog's
area and movement in the same way that the crate does.
If the leash is too long, the dog will be able to eliminate on one side and comfortably move away from the mess
without your noticing.
Use a buckle collar to attach the leash to a dog.
A choke or slip collar will tighten up the dog pulls at the end of the leash and he probably will in the beginning.
With the dog on the leash and collar, you can tether (tie) the dog to you (leash tied to belt) or to an appropriate
object (baseboard hook).
You can install as many hooks as needed (at least one in each room).
Remember, it is very important to isolate the dog from the family.
Dogs are pack animals and thrive in social situations.
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If you need additional help the training staff at
Feathers And Fleece is here to assist you
just give us a call or send us an e mail.
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